あおあお 2号 特集「味はつづく」
aoao vol.2

漁師町の昼ごはん

2-6
朝9時過ぎ。
椿泊漁協にはすでに様々な魚が水揚げされていた。
伊勢エビ、タチウオ、イカ、アジ、ハゲ(カワハギ)…。
「ちょっと前までアシアカエビ捕りに行っきょったけど、今はアオリイカやなあ」と底曵網の漁師の奥さん。
「もうすぐ定置網の人らが帰ってくるよ。
昼過ぎには海士の人らが帰ってくるわ」。
10時半、定置網の漁から太居さんご夫婦が帰ってきた。
ハマチ、サバ、ヒラメ、ヒラスズキ…
たくさんの魚を船に乗せて。

ENGLISH
Lunch in a fishery town

Right after 9:00AM, a variety of fish were already landed on Tsubakidomari Fishery Harbor.
Lobster, sward fish, squid, horse mackerel, threadsail filefish, etc.
“We were busy with Ashiakaebi prawn-fishing a little while ago but now are engaged in catching bigfin reef squid,” said the wife of a dragnet-fisherman.
“Fixed-net fishermen will soon come back, and then Amashi-san early afternoon,” she added.
Mr. and Ms. Tai came back from fixed-net fishing at 10:30 in the morning with a lot of fish such as yellowtail, mackerel, flatfish and blackfin sea bass on the boat.

2-7
400年続く椿泊の漁師の家に生まれた太居雅敏さん。高校卒業後から漁師の道へ入って30年以上になるベテランだが、7年前に頸椎を痛めて以来、奥さんの容子さんも漁を手伝うようになった。「まさか船に乗ることになるなんて思わなかった」と笑う容子さんは香川県出身。“生きた魚”が台所へとやってくることにビクビクし、軍手をはめて魚をさばいていたという新婚当初の話が想像できないほど、今では手際良くさばいた魚で食卓は賑わい、漁の手伝いまでこなしている。「ここらへんで捕れるボラは美味いんよ」と雅敏さん。丸々太ったボラをこれは美味いぞ!と指差しながら「市場では高く売れんけどな」と苦笑い。さすが漁師は美味い魚を知っている。「漁師だったお祖父さんが、わしが小さい頃からちゃんと美味い魚を食わしてくれた」という美味しい魚を食わしてくれた」という太居家の食卓が、雅敏さんの目と舌を鍛え上げてきたようだ。

夜明け頃に船を出し、定置網から魚を引き揚げて、昼前には漁協へと水揚げ。獲ってきた魚を素早く、しかし丁寧に扱いながら仕分けしたあと、最後に残った魚を小降りのコンテナにまとめた。出荷する分以外の魚は、家へと持ち帰ってその日のおかずになるのだ。「お父さん(雅敏さん)は煮魚が一番好きなんよ」と、必ずその日獲れた魚の煮付けと刺身が並ぶのが太居家のいつもの昼ごはん。煮魚は醤油と酒だけで煮付け、砂糖やみりんなどは加えない。シンプルな味付けだがそれだけで十分。「なんもせんでも魚の甘みが出とるけん、煮魚にして食べるんが一番美味い」と雅敏さん。さすが漁師は魚の食べ方を知っている。

ENGLISH
Mr. Masatoshi Tai was born into a fisherman’s family being engaged in fishery for nearly four hundred years in Tsubakidomari. He is an experienced fisherman as it has been more than thirty years since he became a fisherman after graduating from high school. But, when he had a cervical spine injury seven years ago, his wife, Yoko, started helping his work. “I had never imagined working on a fishing boat,” said Yoko, smiling. She was from Kagawa Prefecture. When she just got married with him and came to Tsubakidomari, she was afraid of cutting live fish and did so wearing gloves in the kitchen. But, she can now clean fish very quickly and skillfully to make dishes with the fish and even works as an assistant in fishing. I couldn’t imagine she once had such a time. “Harder caught here is very delicious. So, this must be delicious!” said Masatoshi, pointing at plump harder, “We can’t make a good price for it in the market, though,” showing a wry smile. Fishermen know which fish is delicious very well. “My grandfather, who was a fisherman, too, had brought delicious fish home since I was a little child,” said him. The dishes of Tai family might develop the good eyes and the sense of taste of Masatoshi.

His fishing boat left the harbor at the break of day, collected fish caught in a fixed net and landed them before noon. The catch was quickly but carefully sorted and the remaining fish after sorting were put into a smaller container. Fish other than those selected to be shipped to the market are brought to a fisherman’s house to be cooked for dishes of the day. “Masatoshi loves ‘nitsuke (fish boiled with seasonings)’ the most,” said Yoko. The lunch of Tai family always includes ‘sashimi (sliced raw fish)’ and ‘nitsuke’ made of fish caught in the morning of the day. Nitsuke is made by using only soy sauce and sake but not sugar or mirin (sweet sake). The seasoning is simple but enough to make a delicious dish. Masatoshi said, “Even without much seasoning, the fish itself is savory, so that nitsuke is the best cooking method to enjoy the taste of fish.” Fishermen should be the ones who know the best cooking method of fish.

2-8
2-9
昼も12時を過ぎた頃、“生きた魚”はあっという間に煮魚、刺身、焼魚に姿を変えて「取材やけん少し多めに」と、普段より豪華な昼ごはんがはじまった。同居している母親の恭子さんのほか、香川県から帰省中の次女の加奈子さんも一緒に食卓を囲む。肥えた舌は加奈子さんも同じで「(外食したとき)家で食べてたウニやナマコの味と違っててびっくりした」という。太居家はみんな魚好きだ。「長女の子どもたちも魚が好きで、毎週魚を持っていってあげよるんよ」。長女の嫁ぎ先は農家で、お裾分けした魚は新鮮な野菜になって返ってくるそうだ。昼ごはんが終わると雅敏さんはいそいそとどこかへ。網の手入れなどが無い日は午前中で仕事が終わり、漁はまた夜明け頃から始まる。太居家の食卓からはキラキラと光る海が見えていた。

ENGLISH
Live fish were quickly boiled with seasonings, cut to be sashimi or grilled, and a little after noon, the lunch, which was more gorgeous than usual because it was for the coverage of this booklet, started. Yoko’s mother in-law, Kyoko, living with Yoko, and Kanako, Yoko’s second daughter who came back home from Kagawa Prefecture and stayed there for a while at that time, joined the lunch. Kanako also had a good sense of taste, saying, “I was so surprised when eating sea urchin and sea cucumber at a restaurant because the tastes were very different from what I used to eat at home.” All the Tai family members love fish. “Because the children of my first daughter also like fish, I bring fish to them every week,” said Yoko. Her first daughter married into a farming family, so that when she brings fish to the family, she is offered vegetables by them in return. After lunch, Masatoshi went out to somewhere. When there is no necessary work to do such as treating and mending nets and other fishing tools, his work finishes in the morning. But, he has to start working very early next morning. We felt as if we could see an image of the shining sea from the dining scene of Tai family.
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